Car maintenance that heads off big repair bills
Most of what keeps a car reliable is cheap, regular and easy to skip. These are the checks and service items that matter most, the warning signs worth acting on, and how to deal with a repair shop on fair terms.
Follow the schedule in your owner’s manual
The maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual, or in the automaker’s app, is written for your specific engine and transmission, so it outranks generic advice and a shop’s standard menu of services. Many manuals list two schedules, normal and severe, and the severe one fits more drivers than its name suggests.
Many manuals define severe service to include:
- Mostly short trips, especially in cold weather.
- Heavy stop-and-go traffic or long periods of idling.
- Towing, roof loads or heavy cargo.
- Dusty, muddy or salted roads.
- Long stretches of extreme heat or cold.
Oil: go by the engine, not an old rule
Oil change intervals vary widely with the engine, the oil and how the car is driven, so a single mileage rule can’t fit every car. If your car has an oil-life monitor, follow it; it estimates oil wear from operating conditions rather than counting miles alone. Many manuals also set a time limit, so a car that is rarely driven still needs fresh oil on schedule.
Use the viscosity and specification printed in the manual, such as 0W-20 plus the approval standard listed beside it. Check the level on the dipstick or the dashboard display about once a month, because some engines use oil between changes, and running an engine low on oil can damage it quickly.
Tires: pressure, rotation, tread and age
Set pressure to the figure on the placard inside the driver’s door jamb, not the maximum molded into the sidewall, and check it monthly with a gauge while the tires are cold. The dashboard warning light typically comes on only when a tire is well below the correct pressure, so treat it as a backstop, not a gauge.
Rotate tires on the schedule in your manual so they wear evenly. Most states set 2/32 inch as the legal minimum tread depth, and a penny shows it: insert one into a groove with Lincoln’s head upside down, and if you can see the top of his head, the tires are due. Age matters as well. The last four digits of the DOT code on the sidewall give the week and year of manufacture, and many vehicle and tire makers advise replacing tires somewhere between six and ten years old, regardless of tread.
Warning lights and brake trouble
On the dashboard, red generally means stop safely and investigate, while yellow or amber means get it checked soon. A steady check-engine light calls for reading the trouble codes, which any OBD-II scanner can do on cars from the 1996 model year onward. A flashing one signals a severe misfire that can damage the catalytic converter, so ease off and have it seen promptly.
Brakes usually give notice before they fail. Stop driving and arrange a tow if the pedal sinks toward the floor or the red brake light stays on after you release the parking brake, and schedule an inspection soon if you notice any of these:
- A high-pitched squeal, often from wear indicators built into the pads.
- Grinding, which can mean metal on metal and quickly ruins rotors.
- A pulsing pedal or a shaking steering wheel when you brake.
- The car pulling to one side under braking.
- A soft or spongy pedal, or one that travels farther than it used to.
Batteries, fluids, filters and wipers
A car battery typically lasts a few years, and often less in hot climates. Slow cranking, dim lights at startup and corrosion on the terminals are early hints, and many auto parts stores and repair shops will test a battery at little or no cost before it strands you.
Check fluids the way your manual describes, and never open a hot radiator or coolant cap. Items that are easy to overlook:
- Coolant: protects against overheating and freezing; use the type the manual specifies.
- Brake fluid: absorbs moisture over time, so many automakers set a replacement interval in years as well as miles.
- Transmission fluid: some manuals call it lifetime fluid, but severe-service schedules often require changes.
- Engine and cabin air filters: cheap, quick to check and often overdue.
- Wiper blades: replace them when they streak or chatter, and keep the washer reservoir full.
Recalls, repair shops and records
Run your VIN through NHTSA’s recall lookup a couple of times a year, and keep your address current with the automaker so recall notices reach you. Safety recall repairs are free at authorized dealers for all but very old vehicles, whether you bought the car new or used.
Choose a shop before you need one. Look for ASE-certified technicians, ask for a written estimate before work begins, and ask the shop to call for your approval before doing anything beyond it. Keep every receipt in one place; a complete service history supports warranty claims and makes the car easier to sell.
What changes with an electric car
An electric car skips oil changes, spark plugs and exhaust repairs, but it still needs scheduled care. Many EVs use coolant to manage battery and motor temperatures, and they still have brake fluid, cabin air filters, wipers and a 12-volt battery that can fail like any other.
Regenerative braking slows the car with the motor, so pads and rotors often last much longer, but brakes that see little use can corrode and still need regular inspection. EVs are also heavy and deliver torque instantly, which can wear tires faster, so check pressure and rotate them on schedule.